Wanderings in the Peloponnese: Ancient Ruins, Hidden Falls, and Saying Goodbye

The Peloponnese: Part One

The day after my birthday, we had to say a bittersweet farewell to our travel companions, Wiki & Lukas, as they made their way to Poland. After a month of convoying together, it felt strange to part ways. You get so used to each other’s rhythms, and suddenly the road feels a little emptier. But as I always say, it’s never goodbye, just "see you later." Moments like these are what make travelling so rich, the connections you form and the inevitable goodbyes that come with them.

A Historic Start in Olympia

With no concrete plans for the Peloponnese, Darian and I decided to see what Google Maps had to offer. Much to my surprise and excitement, we realised that Olympia, the birthplace of the ancient Olympic Games, was just a short drive away. As a lover of Greek history, I knew we couldn’t pass it up.

Wandering through the ancient ruins, you can’t help but feel a deep sense of awe. It’s humbling to think about the centuries of history beneath your feet. Olympia was beautifully preserved, and the thought of standing where the very first Olympians once competed gave the place an almost magical atmosphere.

After a long day of exploring, we found a quiet, wild beach to camp on, allowing ourselves a few days of rest and reflection by the sea.

Chasing Waterfalls: Neda

Once we were recharged, it was time to hit the road again. Darian, always one for a scenic waterfall, had heard about Neda Falls, so we pointed the van in that direction. The journey there was an adventure in itself, narrow, winding roads climbing higher into the hills, with each turn testing our nerves. We even had to navigate through a tiny village, squeezing our oversized van through streets clearly designed for much smaller vehicles. The locals seemed both amused and concerned by our presence, and we may have left a few scratches on the van for our efforts.

After a 30 minute hike through the forest, we arrived at the waterfall. The effort was well worth it. The crisp, cool water, surrounded by lush greenery, felt like a hidden paradise. Getting back out of the area wasn’t any easier, and we may have upset a particularly frustrated Greek man during our escape, but it was all part of the fun.

Vodokilia Beach: A Perfect Bay

Our next stop was Vodokilia Beach, a place you have to see to believe. Shaped like a perfect crescent, the bay was flanked by ancient fortresses and caves, making it feel like something out of an ancient legend. We couldn’t resist the hike up to one of the forts, finding shade in a cave along the way to escape the heat.

If you plan to do this hike, make sure you wear decent shoes, Darian’s choice of Crocs didn’t do her any favours, and she had a few close calls slipping on the rocks. But once we reached the top, the sweeping views of the coastline made every stumble worth it.

After a cooling dip in the sea, we decided to head off again, this time aiming for Ancient Messene.

Ancient Messene: Taking the Scenic Route

Upon arriving at Ancient Messene, we found out it would cost €12 per person to enter the archaeological site. Being budget conscious travellers, we decided to admire it from afar by following a small trail around the outside. While we didn’t get the up close experience, the view from a distance was still pretty impressive.

That night, we found a peaceful church in the middle of nowhere to camp beside. As we settled in, the church’s groundskeeper showed up and kindly offered to open it for us to explore. Though we couldn’t communicate much, his generosity spoke volumes, another reminder of the kindness we’ve encountered on this journey. Later, a friendly German couple joined us, and what could have been a quiet evening turned into a sociable night, complete with shared beers and stories.

Kalamata and the Clutch Drama

After all the clutch trouble we’d been having, we finally found a garage in Kalamata that could diagnose the issue. The noises coming from it had grown louder and more alarming, so it was a relief to get some answers. The bad news? The garage couldn’t fit us in for twelve days. The good news? We had twelve days to explore more of the Peloponnese, including the rugged Mani Peninsula.

But that’s a story for next time.