From Festivals to Friendships: Our Unforgettable Albanian Adventure

Albania Part 3: The Road to Korçë

Although it was hard to leave Qeparo, it was time to say our goodbyes, at least for now. We left a few days earlier than planned to soak up more of Albania's scenery and tick off the final stops on our must see list. Our first destination was Përmet to stock up on food before heading just around the corner to the Benjë hot springs.

Feeling generous, we gave a French hitchhiking couple a lift to the springs. After a long drive and a busy morning, a little siesta was in order before we ventured out for a dip. When we finally made it to the water later in the afternoon, it had cooled significantly a bit of a surprise, but a welcome one after the heat. The ancient bridge over the springs made for a beautiful backdrop, setting the scene for a peaceful evening.

The next day, we aimed for Korçë. After all the socializing in recent weeks, we were feeling worn out, so we found a little lake just outside Korçë on the map. It looked like the perfect spot to recharge our energy before the Korçë Beer Festival. The drive was absolutely breathtaking, winding through mountain roads. It was tough driving, but the views made every second worth it. We could easily argue this was the best road either of us had ever driven.

Once we arrived at our camp, we made a small fire, had some dinner, and settled in for two restful nights.

Korçë Beer Festival

We arrived in Korçë a day early to find a place to park. There, we finally met Wiki and Lukas, a couple we’d been chatting with on social media for a while. After introductions, we parked next to the football stadium where the trees offered some welcome shade from the heat. Soon after, we were joined by a Dutch couple. A few beers later, the party officially started when Jeremy and Sandra arrived. Meeting people on the road has a predictable pattern for us it starts with a beer and inevitably ends in shots.

By the next day, our “gypsy camp” was in full swing. Shade up, makeshift showers rigged, outdoor cookers going, and washing hanging around it was these moments of communal living that made us appreciate life on the road even more. The first night of the festival was a whirlwind. Somehow, I ended up being interviewed by Albanian national news. Let’s just say they probably weren’t expecting my somewhat pickled responses, but hey, I’m now officially the most famous man in Albania.

That week, we made incredible friends, enjoyed local experiences, made pizzas, and laughed our way through the festival. As with all good things, though, the time eventually came to say goodbye to our new Dutch friends at the end of the week. The rest of us, however, still had some more travelling to do together.

Convoy and Company

On the last day of the beer festival, a storm front started rolling in. Not ones to hang around in bad weather, we decided to convoy with Lukas, Wiki, Jeremy, and Sandra up to Lake Ohrid on the Albanian side to wait out the storm. We found a great spot on the lake with an old wooden shelter that gave us a bit of cover. As the storm settled in, we hosted a cramped yet cozy dinner party in our van with all six of us squeezed inside sweaty but fun.

While there, we took the opportunity to walk to the nearby village of Lin, close to the North Macedonian border, and bought some local produce. Once the storm cleared a few days later, it was time to head up into Shebenik National Park.

Shebenik National Park

Back in the mountains, we welcomed the cooler air and took advantage of it by doing some serious hiking. One hike ended up being more strenuous than expected, involving a bit of free climbing up to a hermit’s cave, where I was crowned the 89th prophet (I’m still waiting for the perks). We also explored an ice cave that lived up to its name, chilling us to the bone.

Of course, it wouldn’t be a proper adventure without van troubles. Pulling into a camp spot one evening, we noticed a strange rattling noise from the engine. After some trial and error, we diagnosed the problem as a clutch bearing issue another bump in the road that would alter our plans in Albania. Jeremy and Sandra left for North Macedonia to meet some friends, and saying goodbye was tough. They had been a major part of our Albanian journey, but we knew we’d meet again.

Elbasan and the Clutch Saga

We had to pass through Elbasan to get a second opinion on our clutch bearing. After some back and forth, we were told it was a 50/50 chance of failure. Ever the optimists, we decided to take the better side of the odds. While in Elbasan, we also tried to get our A/C fixed. It works now… kind of, as long as we don’t use it uphill or in traffic. After two days of rest at a campsite (surviving temperatures of over 45°C), and getting some much needed laundry done, we began planning our route to Greece with Wiki and Lukas.

The Road to the Greek Border

First on the route was a slight detour to Fier, as Wiki and Lukas hadn’t yet visited the Albania Winery. Naturally, we couldn’t pass up the chance to revisit. The winery welcomed us back with open arms. As if on cue, another storm hit the evening we arrived, knocking out the power and canceling all reservations. The owners, ever hospitable, spent the evening with us, sharing drinks and conversations by candlelight. They even brought out fresh bread for breakfast the next morning. It was an even better experience than the first time we stayed, and their hospitality was second to none. I’ll drop a link below, but if you’re ever in Albania, you absolutely need to visit this place. The homegrown food, wine, and of course, raki, are unbeatable.

After two nights at the vineyard, it was time to make some ground. Naturally, we took the coastal route to say our final goodbyes to the friends we’d made in Qeparo. Leaving Qeparo was tough it had become our base in Albania, a place that felt like home. But with Greece on the horizon, we knew new adventures awaited us.

The Final Stop: Gjirokastër

Before crossing the border, we had one last city to visit: Gjirokastër. It turned out to be the perfect finale to our Albanian journey, as we managed to land a gig at a campsite in exchange for free accommodation. Once the work was done, we headed into town for a much deserved end of job beer and, in classic fashion, found ourselves in an Irish bar. What a way to wrap up our Albanian adventure.

Conclusion
As we drove away from Albania, our van packed with memories and a little wear and tear, it wasn’t just the stunning landscapes and wild adventures that left an impression. It was the people we met along the way the fellow travelers who became our convoy mates, the locals who shared their stories, and those unforgettable nights spent laughing, sharing drinks, and dancing under the stars. From the vibrant streets of Korce to the serene lakeside in Shebenik, we didn’t just visit Albania; we lived it.

The friendships we made here will last a lifetime. Albania gave us more than just a journey; it gifted us a little family on the road. And while we’re rolling onwards to our next destination, we know it’s not goodbye. We’ll be back because once you’ve connected with a place and its people this deeply, it always calls you back.

Albanica winery

https://www.facebook.com/atlantid.hospitality/

Links