Albania Unveiled: From Majestic Mountains to Coastal Charms

Albania Part 2

After spending ten days exploring Montenegro more on that in another post we returned to Albania. At the border crossing, we managed to bypass the €300 insurance fee by showing an expired green card from our previous entry. It wasn’t our brightest idea, but when you’re on the road, every penny counts.

Navigating the Rugged Beauty of Theth

Our next destination was Theth, nestled high in the Albanian mountains. The drive was an endless series of hairpin bends on a narrow, single track road. By the time we reached the summit, I was exhausted and couldn’t drive any further, so we set up camp right there. The cool night air was a welcome change it was the first time we’d used a duvet since May. Feeling refreshed, we began our descent into Theth the next morning.

The village welcomed us with stunning scenery and an unexpected offer to camp, which we gladly accepted after all, a good shower was long overdue. We set out early the next morning to hike to a nearby waterfall, hoping to beat the midday heat. Theth is truly breathtaking, with its towering mountains, crystal clear streams, and vibrant greenery. It’s no wonder they call it the Albanian Alps.

We also hiked to the Blue Eye in Theth, a hidden gem that rivals its more famous counterpart near Sarandë. This hike was a bit more challenging, as we didn’t start until 4 PM, thanks to a failed attempt to reach Lumi i Shalës earlier in the day. Despite the late start and the heat, the stunning scenery made it all worthwhile.

Lumi i Shalës had been on our bucket list, but we quickly learned the hard way that it wasn’t accessible by car. After navigating 10 km of off road tracks and crossing rivers, we realized the only way to reach it was by boat. Lesson learned.

After a few days of soaking in the beauty of Theth, we found ourselves low on supplies and ready to move on.

Exploring the Historic Charm of Krujë

As we descended from the mountains, the heat became more intense it was mid June by now. We made a quick stop in Shkodër to stock up on groceries before heading across the country to Krujë. We found a beautiful park up spot overlooking the town and treated ourselves to a glass of wine as we watched a surreal sunset paint the sky in vivid colors.

The next morning, we found a shady spot to park in Krujë and set out to explore. We spotted a castle in the distance and made our way toward it, passing by the Skanderbeg statue, a tribute to Albania’s national hero. We stumbled upon an old bazaar, our first experience of such a market, filled with colorful trinkets, silverware, and swords. Despite the temptations, we only left with a single bag. The castle itself offered panoramic views of the city and housed the Skanderbeg Museum, still standing strong after all these years.

After a day of wandering through Krujë, the heat drove us to cool down with some ice cream before jumping back in the van and heading to Tirana.

Experiencing Tirana’s Vibrant Nightlife

We had long planned to revisit Tirana, and Darian’s birthday seemed like the perfect occasion. Margaux had tipped us off about a campsite right in the heart of the city, where we agreed to meet. We arrived in the early evening, set up camp, and played a few games of chess before striking up a conversation with our Austrian neighbors.

With Margaux’s arrival, we decided to hit the town and experience Tirana’s nightlife. The memories from that night are a bit blurry, but I distinctly remember smoking gold tipped cigarettes at some point. As the club closed and the hot Albanian sun began to rise, we stumbled back to the campsite for some much needed sleep. Unfortunately, the intense heat made it impossible to sleep beyond two hours what a way for Darian to start her birthday.

Despite our exhaustion, we soldiered through the day. The afternoon brought a surprise visit from Jeremy and Sandra, complete with a birthday cake. It was great to see them again, and it gave us the energy boost we needed to continue celebrating. The Euro final added to the excitement (though the less said about the result, the better). After another night of revelry, we weren’t ready to part ways just yet, so we all decided to head to a beach north of Durrës for a week.

Relaxing on the Beach North of Durrës

We spent a blissful week on a beach with Margaux, Swan, Jeremy and Sandra. The shade from the trees was a lifesaver, especially after we discovered a nail in one of our tyres. Surprisingly, this was our first tyre issue, and we quickly found a local who patched it up within two hours no big drama.

Our days were filled with games, reading, chatting, cooking good food, and swimming. A beach shower provided a refreshing break from the relentless heat. By now, we were becoming accustomed to being sweaty 24/7. After the week passed, it was time for everyone to go their separate ways. It was the last time we’d see Margaux, as she headed toward Romania, while Jeremy and Sandra made their way to Krujë. We decided to head south to a town called Berat.

Discovering Berat’s Scenic and Culinary Delights

The drive to Berat was long, and after a week of socializing, we were in need of some downtime. We pulled into a nature jacuzzi just outside the town in the evening. The water was freezing, which was a welcome relief after the week we’d spent in the scorching heat.

The next day, we found a cozy café in Berat and decided to walk up to the castle, despite the intense heat. The cobblestone road seemed to stretch on forever, with little shade along the way. The view from the top was worth the effort, but we were almost too tired to enjoy it. On our way back down, we stopped at a bakery for some byrek, our favorite snack a delicious pie filled with cheese, spinach, or meat.

We then drove a bit further south, following a tip from Jeremy and Sandra about some great parking spots. We spent the next two days sheltering from the blistering heat, during which we met a German guy who had converted an old fire truck, adopted a dog, and was traveling with his Tinder date. Naturally, we spent an evening sharing a few beers and stories.

When the weather finally cooled down a bit, we decided to stop by a winery called Albanica, just north of Fier, based on another recommendation.

Savoring Local Wines and Reconnecting in Qeparo

The winery offered free parking outside its restaurant, along with the use of a toilet and shower a thrilling prospect for us! In the evening, we headed to the restaurant for some traditional, locally sourced Albanian food and a wine tasting. The host was one of the kindest people we’d met, offering us a full Albanian dining experience. We were treated to free raki and liqueurs, which we gladly accepted.

As the night wore on and our vision blurred, we stumbled back to the van for a well deserved rest. The next morning, as we sipped our coffee outside, I noticed a small leak on the front left rim of the tyre. Once again, we had to visit a garage by now, we were getting pretty good at finding them. Since we were headed back past Vlorë on our route to Qeparo, we decided to stop there to make sure everything was okay. Thankfully, it wasn’t the brakes, the issue turned out to be with the A/C system, which had developed a leak due to a failing acclimatization fan.

Back in Qeparo, we reunited with our friends at Atlantid Hospitality, excited to lend a hand on the beach and in the restaurant again. In exchange for food, a shower, and a free parking spot, we settled into a comfortable rhythm. What was supposed to be a brief stop turned into a three week stay longer than we’d ever planned! But there's something truly magical about Qeparo that makes it hard to leave. The light blue ocean, with mountains cascading down to the sea, became our backdrop for daily dips and the occasional cliff jump to cool off in the midday heat.

The crew at Atlantid was incredible, going out of their way to make us feel at home. They gave us real insight into Albanian culture and taught us a few valuable lessons along the way. Time flew by, as it always does when you're in good company and a stunning location. Even Jeremy popped in for a visit while Sandra was away in Germany, adding to the fun and familiar faces in our little beachside paradise.

During our stay, we met Victoria and Dan, an American couple traveling on their sailboat moored in the bay. Their stories of life on the water got us thinking that owning a boat, might be a cool idea someday. We became fast friends, often paddling over to visit them or skiving off work depending on how you look at it.

A Journey Through Albania: Mountains, Beaches, and Unforgettable Memories

Our return to Albania was marked by rugged mountain roads, stunning landscapes, and a mix of unexpected challenges and memorable experiences. From the breathtaking beauty of Theth and the lively atmosphere of Tirana to the tranquil beaches near Durrës and the charm of Berat, each stop offered something unique. We navigated narrow mountain passes, explored ancient castles, and enjoyed the warmth of local hospitality. Despite a few vehicle hiccups, the journey was filled with laughter, new friendships, and unforgettable moments. As we wrapped up our time in Qeparo, helping out on the beach and bonding with fellow travelers, we found ourselves more in love with the road than ever. Next, we’re off to the Beer Festival in Korçë, but that’s a story for another day.