12 Days in the Mani Peninsula: Castles, Shipwrecks, and Perseverance

The Garage: A 12-Day Wait

After finding out that a garage would finally do the work on our van, we hit a snag, there was a 12 day wait before they could fit us in. Plus, we were told not to drive far in the meantime. So, we took that as the perfect excuse to explore the Mani Peninsula.

A Castle and a Church

We spotted what looked like an abandoned castle, sitting in the middle of nowhere, just an hour’s drive from Kalamata. After a morning filled with garage visits and stress, a little adventure sounded like a good idea. What we didn’t expect were the tight roads with low hanging olive branches scraping against the van. A few extra scratches? Not the end of the world. Every scratch tells a story, at least, that’s what we tell ourselves to feel better about them!

When we finally arrived, the castle stood alone, perched above the sea and surrounded by nature, mainly olive trees. It was beautiful and remote, making us daydream about owning a castle someday. A little out of our price range for now, but it’s fun to dream, right?

Despite how tempting it was to stay the night, we decided to press on and found an abandoned church to park up next to instead. That night, as the price of the van repairs weighed heavily on our minds, we may have drowned our sorrows a little too much.

Areopoli: Fixes and Feasts

The next day, feeling a little groggy, we thought it was best to tackle what we could fix on the van ourselves. A shower repair and re-sealing the skylights were on the agenda, nothing a trusty tube of silicone couldn’t handle!

After our DIY repairs, we headed to the charming town of Areopoli. It gave off serious Italian coastal vibes, reminding us of our time in Puglia. The town treated us to a stunning sunset, so naturally, we had to find a spot to eat. This is where we learned that a pork gyros portion in Greece is basically enough to feed a small army. Not ones to waste food, and with a little help from a stray cat, we managed to polish off both plates.

That night, we parked up at a lovely beach we’d spotted earlier. The view was incredible, and we ended up staying there for three days. One day, we took a walk to a nearby seaside village called Limeni. Greece is full of beautiful spots, but this little slice of heaven took our breath away. If we hadn’t run out of supplies, we might have stayed even longer.

Cape Tainaron Lighthouse: A Moment of Reflection

We had heard about Cape Tainaron, the southernmost point in mainland Europe, and since we were nearby, we made the drive down. It was the perfect way to mark the last six months of our journey. Standing at the end of the cape, looking out over the sea, I felt an overwhelming sense of achievement.

No matter how hard things had been, whether it was van breakdowns, financial stress, or unexpected setbacks, we had persevered. In that moment, I realised that no matter what challenges came our way, we could handle them. It was a powerful realisation, and it sunk in deep: we were tougher and more resilient than we had ever imagined.

Vathia: Timeless Beauty

We spent a few more days exploring the peninsula, visiting the scenic village of Vathia, perched high on a hill overlooking the sea. The old stone houses, some crumbling and others still standing strong, gave the place a timeless charm. We woke up every morning to breathtaking views, grateful for this slow paced part of our adventure.

Dimitrios Shipwreck: Pirates and Photos

Eager for a boat trip but low on funds, Darian found the next best thing. A shipwreck just outside the town of Gythio. The Dimitrios is said to have been a cigarette smuggling ship that was burned for insurance purposes. At least, that’s the version of the story I like. It sounds far more exciting, modern day pirates and all that.

The ship posed perfectly for photos, looking as if it hadn’t moved in decades, which is exactly right because it definitely wasn’t setting sail anytime soon.

Just up the road, we found an amazing cliff top spot to park for the night, offering sweeping views of the entire Mani Peninsula. Funnily enough, it used to be an old German machine gun position, but for us, it was the perfect place to make camp.

This Is Sparta!

With a few days left before we had to return to the garage, we couldn’t miss the chance to visit Sparta. We checked out the statue of Leonidas and wandered through ancient Sparta. Unfortunately, much of it was closed, but that didn’t stop me from re enacting the iconic “This is Sparta!” scene from 300. And yeah, it felt pretty good.

Cold Days in the Mountains

We had some time to kill, so we headed into the mountains above Kalamata. For the first time in what felt like forever, we had to break out our jumpers and trousers. It was chilly, but it made for a nice change of pace, and the views were worth it.

Kalamata: Back to Reality

Finally, it was time to head back to Kalamata and take the van in for its much needed repairs. The van wasn’t sounding healthy, and we knew we were in for a big service. We booked into a local B&B, thinking we’d only be there for two nights. But as always, things don’t always go according to plan...